Build Your Own GEET Reactor
Paul Pantone released these plans for everyone on the planet. This guide will help you build one.
CRITICAL SAFETY WARNINGS
Before you begin, understand that you are working with:
- Flammable fuels and vapors — Gasoline, diesel, and other fuels can ignite or explode
- Hot exhaust gases — Temperatures can exceed 900°F (482°C)
- Internal combustion engines — Rotating parts, electrical systems, carbon monoxide
- Experimental modifications — This is not a factory-tested system
Work outdoors or in well-ventilated areas. Keep fire extinguishers nearby. Never run engines in enclosed spaces. If you smell fuel, stop immediately.
Legal Disclaimer
This information is provided for educational and research purposes only. Building and operating a GEET reactor may void vehicle warranties, violate emissions regulations in your jurisdiction, and could be dangerous if improperly constructed. You assume all risk and liability. The authors and publishers of this guide make no warranties and accept no responsibility for any damages, injuries, or legal consequences resulting from the use of this information. Consult local laws and regulations before modifying any engine or fuel system.
Introduction
This guide covers the construction of a GEET (Global Environmental Energy Technology) reactor for small engines under 20 HP — the "free internet plans" that Paul Pantone released to the public in 1998. This version is suitable for lawn mowers, small generators, and experimental purposes.
The GEET system replaces the standard carburetor with a fuel processing system that uses exhaust heat to vaporize and reform fuel before it enters the engine. The core components are:
- The Bubbler — Vaporizes the fuel mixture using exhaust heat
- The Reactor — Reforms the vaporized fuel through heat exchange
- Control Valves — Regulate air and fuel vapor flow
Start Simple: If this is your first GEET build, use a small, inexpensive engine that you can afford to experiment with. A 5 HP lawn mower engine or small generator is ideal. Do not attempt this on a vehicle you depend on for transportation.
Required Materials
Reactor Components
| Item | Specification | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Outer tube (exhaust chamber) | 16-7/16" black iron pipe, 3/4" diameter, threaded both ends | Standard plumbing pipe works |
| Reactor rod | 12" x 1/2" steel rod | Cold-rolled steel preferred; stainless also works |
| Reducing tees (2) | 1" x 1/2" x 1/2" black iron | Connect tubes at each end |
| Copper washers (2) | 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD | Seal the rod at each end |
| Pipe nipples | 1/2" x 2" (2 pieces) | Connect reactor to bubbler and engine |
| Ball valves (2) | 1/2" brass | Air and fuel vapor control |
Bubbler Components
| Item | Specification | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Container | 1-gallon plastic jug (antifreeze container works well) | Must be heat-resistant; metal is better for longevity |
| Copper tubing | 1/2" OD, approximately 3 feet total | For inlet and outlet lines |
| Steel wool or pot scrub pads | 4-6 pads | Increases surface area for vaporization |
| Ballcock valve | Standard toilet fill valve type | Air inlet control |
| Rubber stopper or cork | Size to fit container opening | Drilled for tubing and valve |
| Hose clamps | Various sizes | Secure all connections |
Additional Materials
- High-temperature silicone sealant (exhaust-rated)
- Teflon tape for all threaded connections
- Flexible fuel-rated hose (if needed for connections)
- Mounting brackets and hardware
- Wire for securing components
Required Tools
- Pipe wrenches (2)
- Adjustable wrenches
- Drill with metal bits (for mounting holes)
- Hacksaw or pipe cutter
- Tape measure
- Files for deburring
- Propane torch (for bending copper tubing)
- Safety glasses and work gloves
Step-by-Step Construction
Step 1: Prepare the Reactor Rod
The reactor rod is the heart of the system. Proper preparation is critical.
- Cut the rod to length: The 12" rod should fit inside the outer tube with approximately 1/2" clearance at each end.
- Center the rod: The gap between the rod and the inner wall of the pipe should be approximately 1/32" to 1/16" (0.8-1.6mm). This narrow annular gap is critical for proper fuel vapor processing.
- Smooth the ends: File any burrs or rough edges. The rod must be smooth.
- Check straightness: Roll the rod on a flat surface. Any bend will affect performance.
Critical Dimension: The gap between the rod and tube is typically 1/32" to 1/16". Many builders report better results with the smaller 1/32" gap. Use copper washers or centering spacers to maintain consistent spacing.
Step 2: Assemble the Reactor
- Apply Teflon tape to all threaded connections before assembly.
- Thread the outer pipe into the first reducing tee. Tighten securely.
- Insert the reactor rod through the center of the assembly. The copper washers should seal at each end.
- Thread the second reducing tee onto the other end of the outer pipe.
- Install pipe nipples into the remaining ports of the reducing tees:
- One side connects to the bubbler output (fuel vapor inlet)
- Other side connects to the engine intake manifold (processed vapor outlet)
- Side ports connect to exhaust flow
- Verify alignment: The rod must be centered. Rotate the assembly — there should be no binding or contact between rod and tube.
Step 3: Build the Bubbler
- Prepare the container: Clean thoroughly. If using a plastic antifreeze jug, ensure it's fully rinsed of any residue.
- Drill the cap/stopper: You need three holes:
- Exhaust inlet tube (brings hot gases into the liquid)
- Vapor outlet tube (carries vaporized fuel to reactor)
- Air inlet valve (controls air mixture)
- Install the exhaust inlet tube: This tube should extend down near the bottom of the container (about 1" from bottom) so exhaust bubbles through the fuel mixture.
- Install the vapor outlet tube: This tube should only extend about 1" below the cap — it collects vapor from above the liquid level.
- Add steel wool or pot scrub pads: Place loosely in the container. These increase surface area for better vaporization.
- Install the ballcock valve: This controls how much air is drawn into the system and mixed with the fuel vapor.
- Seal all penetrations: Use high-temperature silicone. No leaks allowed.
Bubbler Positioning: The bubbler must be positioned where it won't tip over or spill. Hot exhaust gases will heat the container. Ensure adequate ventilation and keep flammable materials away.
Step 4: Connect the System
The flow through the system follows this path:
Exhaust Flow (Hot):
Engine Exhaust → Reactor (outer chamber) → Bubbler (through liquid) → Atmosphere
Fuel Vapor Flow (Cold → Hot):
Air + Bubbler Vapor → Reactor (inner chamber, counter-flow) → Engine Intake
- Connect exhaust to reactor: Hot exhaust gases enter the outer chamber of the reactor (the space between the outer tube and inner tube assembly).
- Connect reactor exhaust outlet to bubbler inlet: The partially cooled exhaust then flows into the bubbler, bubbling through the fuel mixture.
- Connect bubbler vapor outlet to reactor inlet: The vaporized fuel-air mixture enters the inner chamber of the reactor.
- Connect reactor vapor outlet to engine intake: The processed vapor enters the engine's intake manifold where the carburetor was removed.
- Install control valves: Place ball valves in-line to control vapor flow and air mixture.
Counter-Flow is Critical: The fuel vapor must flow in the opposite direction to the exhaust gases. This counter-current heat exchange is essential for proper fuel reformation.
Step 5: Remove the Carburetor
- Disconnect fuel line from the carburetor. Cap it off.
- Remove throttle linkage — you may need to devise a new throttle control connected to your ball valve.
- Unbolt the carburetor from the intake manifold.
- Create an adapter plate or use appropriate fittings to connect the reactor output to the intake manifold. A good seal is essential.
- Keep the original carburetor — you may need it for initial warm-up or to revert the engine.
Step 6: Mount All Components
- Reactor orientation: Mount with the hot (exhaust) end pointing toward magnetic North. Use a compass. This orientation may affect rod magnetization.
- Secure mounting: All components must be firmly mounted. Vibration will loosen connections and cause leaks.
- Protect from heat: While the reactor needs heat to function, the bubbler and plastic/rubber components need protection from direct heat exposure.
- Accessibility: Mount control valves where you can easily adjust them during tuning.
Tuning and Operation
Initial Startup (Critical)
IMPORTANT: Warm-Up Requirement
The GEET system requires heat to function. The engine must first run on conventional gasoline for 15-30 minutes to heat the reactor before switching to alternative fuel mixtures. Many failed GEET experiments result from skipping this step.
- Initial fuel: For first tests, use straight gasoline in the bubbler (no water mixture yet).
- Start with conventional carburetor: If possible, start the engine on its original carburetor and let it warm up.
- Gradually switch over: Slowly open the GEET valve while closing the carburetor throttle until the engine runs entirely on GEET vapor.
- Monitor exhaust temperature: The reactor needs to reach operating temperature (200-400°F at minimum) to function properly.
Tuning the Mixture
- Air valve adjustment: Start with the air valve nearly closed. Gradually open it while listening to the engine.
- Vapor valve adjustment: Controls how much fuel vapor reaches the engine. Too much = rich, black smoke. Too little = lean, misfiring.
- Listen for:
- Smooth, steady idle
- Good throttle response when opening valves
- No backfiring or misfiring
- Watch the exhaust: Properly tuned GEET should produce very little visible exhaust. Black smoke = too rich. White smoke = normal during warm-up.
Water-Fuel Mixtures
Only after successfully running on straight gasoline should you experiment with water mixtures:
- Start conservative: Try 10-20% water mixed with gasoline first.
- Increase gradually: Some builders report success with up to 80% water, but this requires a fully heated, properly tuned system.
- Monitor engine behavior: Any roughness, hesitation, or power loss indicates the mixture is too lean or the reactor isn't hot enough.
- Temperature matters: Higher water ratios require higher reactor temperatures for successful vaporization and reformation.
Rod Length and Fuel Type
According to Pantone's documentation, rod length should be adjusted based on fuel type:
- Lighter fuels (gasoline, alcohols) = shorter rod
- Heavier fuels (diesel, waste oil) = longer rod
The 12" rod specified in this guide is designed for small engine gasoline operation. Larger engines and heavier fuels may require experimentation with longer rods.
Troubleshooting
Engine Won't Start on GEET
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| No vapor reaching engine | Blocked line, closed valve | Check all connections and valve positions |
| Fuel not vaporizing | Reactor too cold | Run on carburetor longer to heat system |
| Leaks in system | Poor seals, loose fittings | Check all connections with soapy water |
| Too much air | Air valve too open | Close air valve, start with minimum air |
Engine Runs Rough
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Misfiring, hesitation | Mixture too lean | Close air valve slightly, open vapor valve |
| Black smoke, sluggish | Mixture too rich | Open air valve, reduce vapor flow |
| Backfiring | Timing issues or air leaks | Check for intake leaks, verify timing |
| Power loss at high RPM | Insufficient vapor volume | May need larger reactor for engine size |
Bubbler Issues
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Fuel spitting into lines | Level too high, violent bubbling | Lower fuel level, check exhaust flow rate |
| No bubbling | Blocked inlet tube, exhaust leak | Clear obstruction, check exhaust connections |
| Bubbler overheating | Too much exhaust heat | Add heat shielding or increase tubing length |
| Container melting/deforming | Plastic can't handle heat | Switch to metal container |
Common Mistakes
- Not enough warm-up time — The system needs heat to work. Be patient.
- Rod not centered — If the rod touches the tube, the system won't work properly.
- Leaks anywhere in system — The system operates under vacuum; any leak ruins performance.
- Wrong flow direction — Counter-flow is essential. Double-check your plumbing.
- Starting with water mixture — Master straight fuel operation first.
- Ignoring magnetic orientation — Orient reactor with hot end toward magnetic North.
Safety Reminders
- Never run an engine indoors — Carbon monoxide is deadly and odorless.
- Keep fire extinguisher nearby — Class B (flammable liquids) rated.
- Wear safety glasses — Hot vapors and fuel can cause eye injuries.
- Don't smoke near the work area — Fuel vapors are highly flammable.
- Let components cool before adjusting — The reactor gets extremely hot.
- Store fuel properly — Approved containers, away from ignition sources.
- Have someone nearby — Don't work alone on experimental engines.
- Know your engine — Understand how it works before modifying it.
Resources and Downloads
Paul Pantone released the GEET plans freely for humanity. We preserve that legacy by making all documentation available.
Download Resources
Original GEET plans, patents, technical documents, and more.
How GEET Works
Deeper technical explanation of the science behind GEET.
Join the Community
Thousands of builders worldwide have constructed GEET reactors. The most active communities are in France, where the "Gillier-Pantone" system has been adopted by farmers and experimenters alike.
Document your build. Share your results. Pantone wanted this technology in everyone's hands. Every successful replication is a testament to his legacy and a step toward energy independence.
"I could have been a rich man, but I wanted to change the world." — Paul Pantone
Ready to Build?
Download the complete plans and start your journey toward energy independence.
Get the Plans